Colors of Spring

March 20^th, 2014 will signal the beginning of spring, and I can’t wait!  This winter has been the coldest and grayest winter I have seen in years.  Massive piles of snow clog our streets, temperatures so cold even the salt is freezing to the streets.  I need a fresh new wind to break the monotony of these winter doldrums.  I need some color and excitement to burst through these low hanging clouds and splash some color upon my fatigued palate.  Enter the colors of spring, bright and bold dishes inspired from the heart of the season to distract our senses from our current climate and transport our taste buds to the warm embrace of a spring day.

There is no better way to start our seasonal culinary venture than with a twist on one of my favorite vegetables, the beet.  Now I have posted many times before about my love of beets; roasted, pickled and fried I love them all, but this fun little appetizer is a new favorite.  A perfect taste of spring in every bite of this, our fried beet chips topped with a wasabi and green onion Japanese mayo, toasted sesame seeds and chiffanade cilantro.  The beet crisp starts your journey with a deep and earthy bite, mixed with that touch of natural sweetness, followed by the spicy and sweet kick of the mayonnaise all finished off with the herbal hit of cilantro and the crunch of sesame seeds.

But why stop at this one format?  Let’s revamp the classic fish and chip basket with tempura fried tuna, roasted red and golden beets all served with this scallion-wasabi mayo and fresh cilantro.   It's a brand new take, for a brand new season.

While we are discussing beets, and why should we ever stop, let’s talk about golden beets.  Both beautiful and tasty, and they don’t stain your hands, golden beets are slightly tamer and sweeter than there crimson brethren.  And in this application I think we found their perfect match, Roasted Golden Beets with grilled asparagus tips, shaved fennel and parmesan dressed with a charred fennel vinaigrette.  The sweetness and slight earthiness of the beets dances with the darker green asparagus while hitting its high notes with the sweet anise of shaved fennel.  The parts that really take this dish over the top is the charred fennel vinaigrette, a smoky and sweet concoction pureed smooth with diced shallots and cider vinegar.  The saltiness and texture of the shaved parmesan is the final cap to each bite. 

Speaking of cheese, there is no better pizza in my mind than a classic pizza margherita.  Sweet and fresh tomatoes and gooey mozzarella cheese all on a crisp flavorful crust accented with fresh basil and herbal EVOO.  But with the increase awareness of people with gluten allergies we wanted to create a pizza pie worthy of the name, yet still safe for our gluten intolerant friends to enjoy.  In comes the Cauliflower and Polenta crust, topped with fresh heirloom tomatoes, creamy mozzarella, torn basil, EVOO and a healthy drizzle of aged balsamic.  The crust has a deep earthy flavor with a perfect texture and sweetness from the grains of polenta.   But spring is not all about vegetables and tomatoes, meat and fruit play very well together as the mercury rises and the BBQ grill come out of hibernation.

There is something so magical about the combination of meat and smoke, make that pork and smoke.  Whether we are talking Carolina pulled pork or apple wood smoked bacon, pork and smoke were made for each other.  This year we decided to try something a little different and were shocked by the results, so much so that this segment features two dishes with pork loin as the star.  Introducing our Golden Pear wood smoked pork tenderloin, with purple Peruvian potato salad tossed with fresh arugula and roasted corn, garnished with house made preserved lemon.  The potato salad is dressed with a light and refreshing mixture of EVOO and white balsamic vinegar, a perfect combination to the peppery bitterness of the arugula.  The smoke on the pork loin is subtle and smooth with a light touch of sweet fruit flavor. 

But why not play up that fruit flavor by adding more fruit?  Since we were working with a golden pear wood, let’s get some golden pear in on the action.  Now you could just slice the pear, add it to the pork and move on, but we wanted more.  So we grilled the pear slices adding another element of smoke and caramelization to our flavor profile.  But now we wanted something to light and fresh to balance out the deep flavors.  The combined dish is quickly making its way to my top dish for spring.  Presenting our green and red kale salad tossed with black berry vinaigrette, crumbled Gorgonzola and fresh blackberries.  This flavor pack highlighted by the deeply fruity smoked wood and grilled pears is a perfect combination for the warm spring luncheon or cool night in. 

Let’s talk about brinner, or the wonderful phenomenon of breakfast for dinner.  Now the fried chicken and waffle trend has taken the world by storm, but we wanted to play back to breakfast’s sweet side in a new and exciting dessert.  To me spring means citrus margaritas, sweet sangria and mimosas all enjoyed in the warm sunshine.  What do all of these drinks have in common? Citrus!  To that end we created an extraordinary brinner treat, the citrus trio pancake stack.  Blood orange pancakes topped with white chocolate mouse and a blood orange syrup, Myer lemon pancake topped with chocolate mouse and Myer lemon syrup, and finally a key lime pancake topped with toasted coconut and white chocolate mouse and key lime syrup. 

With the weather warming and our winter coats finding a more seasonal place in our closets, it’s time to drop the heavy winter dishes and get ready for the colors of spring.

Back from Hiatus!

Thank you all for bearing with me, we are back and ready to present some new and exciting dishes!

The Muse of Travel par 2

I recently returned from a trip to the great northwest, well Canada’s south west to be specific.  Myself and 34 other caterers and friends traveled all over the beautiful city of Vancouver; eating, drinking, and laughing the whole way. 

Debra Lykkemark, or Culinary Capers, was our guide through this Canadian Culinary Carnival with the help of a few brave souls at Edible Canada.  These chefs at Edible offer tours focused solely on promoting local food and highlighting Canadian cuisine.  With a main headquarters located in the heart of the historic Granville Island they enchant and delight guests with innovative and beautiful flavors of new and old Canadian Cuisine. 

Our first dinner was a partnership dinner at the Edible restaurant where chef and president Eric Pateman, paired with Culinary Capers Executive Chef Margaret Chisholm, set the gustorial bar to new heights with a multi-course dining experience.  Our palates were tickled with chef Margarets appetizers that included Seared Scallop BLTs, and Granville Island Sake Cured Salmon with ginger, pink peppercorns and fennel. 

As we took our seats, ChefEric explained the philosophy behind Edible and all the wonderful products his local artisans were producing.  We were treated to chef demonstrations between courses that showcased the talent and care the local chefs put into every one of their dishes.  This care shined through our very first course, a beautiful lump of poached Dungenous crab meat garnished with a leaf   Servers then descended upon us and poured a small amount chilled dark orange colored watermelon soup around the delicate crab.  Strong herbal and spice notes jumped out at your taste buds as our crew almost took the shine off the bottom of the bowl trying to capture every last drop. 

of the most micro-thai basil.

Along with the soup, some other perfect offerings that night included Kasu and Birch syrup glazed sablefish with sea asparagus and wild mushrooms in an XO broth brought new converts to the birch syrup cult.  Rich and fruity but dark and deep like molasses, this magic elixir glazed the top of our succulent sablefish creating a dark but sweet combination perfectly complimented by the meaty wild lobster and white chanterelle mushrooms. 

The stage had been set, previous expectations exceeded, and we were off and running to our next adventure.

For a taste of the best Canada had to offer from both land and sea we dined at Miku for a 7 course tasting menu paired with local and traditional Japanese sakes.

Opening amuses included Water Melon Gazpacho and Nova Scotia Lobster Bruschetta all finished with fresh garden tomatoes and avocado puree.  A sashimi offering of succulent fatty tuna, flounder and kampachi paired with house-curedhorse mackerel and fresh lemon.  From surf to turf with house-cured wild boar prosciutto and wild boar-duck terrine, followed by a Japanese Suzuki wrapped dashi infused jumbo prawn and asparagus.  We finished the meal off with some beautifully crafted premium sushi including seared wagu ribeye, kampachi, seared fatty tuna and house-crafted smoked salmon.

Each course was a work of art without a single wasted motion or flare.  Miku perfectly captured the zen of traditional Japanese cuisine with the flavor and style that is purely Canadian.

The next day we braved chilly waters and schools of jellyfish with our First Nations guide to experience a traditional smoked salmon barbeque cooked over an open Alder wood fire.  Our guide entertained us with stories of her people from creation, legends about nature and wildlife, to the introduction of European settlers and cultural assimilation.  She sang traditional songs that rippled over the water surface to the edge of the mountains which seemed to answer back like echoes from an earlier age.

When we arrived at the historical springtime fishing village of her people, a large fire was crackling away almost as if it anticipated our arrival.  Our feast of wild rice studded with foraged mushrooms and green onions paired seamlessly with the tranquil serenity of the cold water lapping at the base of mountains made for an unforgettable experience.

Some of the best meals I have ever eaten were only fifty percent about the food.  The rest of the formula was filled with the people I was dining with, the environment and the reason for the celebration.  On a farm in the Pemberton Valley, we dined in a flat clearing surrounded by giant mountains still tipped with white traces of snow.  We dined al fresco on home-style salads, beautifully cooked pork shoulder and loin, grilled flank steak, local artisan breads, and roasted farm fresh vegetables.  With the sun warm on our faces, the wind at our backs and our bellies full we departed the farm for the last stage of our adventure.

Our journey ended with different adventures in the shadow of Whistler Mountain. Some of our group found an adventure at a zip-line course while others relaxed at a spa. I opted for the classic shop, drink and people-watch. While I walked the streets of Whistler I looked for good, local beer and took a tour of the Olympic sites. 

The last meal we shared together was provided by Araxi, which is considered the best restaurant on the mountain.  The menu was engaging and eclectic featuring fried

zucchini blossoms stuffed with crab and cheese with a roasted pepper and pine nut relish followed by the most delicate lemon and roasted garlic crusted halibut with local chanterelle mushrooms and mustard greens.  The dessert was an amazing treat of raspberry sorbet on a stick encased in white chocolate and rolled in pistachios then dusted with gold flakes paired with a decadently smooth black forest cake re-imagined with brandied cherries and chocolate mousse.

As we finished our meal one of my table companions chimed in, “Did you guys realize this was the final meal for the trip?”  I had not realized that this was the last of so many gastronomic experiences we shared together. It was the seamless melding of food, fun and conversation that let our minds wander and disappear into this adventure. It was that heady combination that made it seem like this trip could last forever so that we never had to stop asking, “what’s next?”  But, as with all great experiences, this one must come to a close.  We bid our farewells and see you soons, followed by a few tears and laughs over the antics of the journey. 

Now it is time to head back, and take the knowledge gleaned from our travels and incorporate them into our businesses and lives.  Stay tuned for some new worldly culinary delights from Lon Lanes Inspired Occasions here on Culinary R and D!

The muse of Travel Part One

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.” – Mark Twain.

Twain was a gifted man, perfectly expressing why travel was not only necessary but also a liberation from our current state of mind.  Hence, my mission of the month; to travel, to eat, to drink, to learn and be educated by friends, strangers and other lands.  To experience the charitable views of strangers and friends while gathering knowledge that cannot be acquired by vegetating in my little corner of the world!

My first journey was to the great city of Philadelphia:  The city of brotherly love, Benjamin Franklin, cheesesteaks and Fresh Princes.  I was accompanied by Lon Lane, Jennifer DiCaro, and Zelda Johnson on this fantastic food voyage also known as the “Art of Catered Foods” Conference.  This catering conference attracted a culinary powerhouse of nearly 400 chefs, and business owners, together for 4 days of food sessions, seminars and demos.  

An afternoon walking tour, that included the Rocky Balboa steps and the LOVE statue, ended with a wonderful experience at Supper.  This vintage kitchen chic restaurant was bathed in the warm light of vintage light bulbs and the antique cookery chandelier commanding the dining room.  We let the chef guide and he delighted us with his personal favorites; deviled eggs (truffle, beet and lemon, goat cheese and ham, sesame carrot), grilled squash layered with fresh goats cheese and thyme paired perfectly with a faro risotto, blue cheese grits with crispy chicken skins tossed in homemade buffalo sauce, and PB&J cake.  Each course was simple, yet bold and exciting.

 

On to the conference.  We attended seminars and Chef demos by day, but by night the city became our gustatorial playground.  Each morning started with a tour of the famous Redding Terminal Market for fresh doughnuts straight from the fryer, shaved roast beef sandwiches, steaming bowls of ramen, homemade biscuits, cheeses and farm fresh eggs.

 

After classes we ventured into the city to dine in some of Phillies best restaurants.  

Jose Garces seems to run this town with his 17 different food service operations and restaurants, but the passion and care provided in each of his establishments makes it seem like you are in his one and only.  We dined like most chefs do, with a large group of inquisitive friends, plenty of good wine and spirits, and on and on unceasing wave of delicious culinary delights.  Our tasting menu was a touch misleading, our server informed us there would be 3-4 courses then dessert, 15 dishes later our knives and forks finally came to a permanent rest on the table.  Spanish Jamon Salad, braised octopus rounds dusted with smoked paprika, seared sea scallops, sautéed wild mushrooms, and the 28 ounce dry aged rib eye were just a few of the highlights.  Each course brought out cameras, ooohs and ahhs, and immediate dissection of every dish for inspirations to bring home to our operations. 

As our conference came to a close a close crew of family friends and I decided to push our Philly adventure, and our stomachs, for one last meal.  After an overflow of positive reviews we set our sights on Kevin Spraga’s namesake restaurant for our final hoorah.  The menu was bold, daring and exciting.    We ordered one of everything and set in for an amazing journey.  

 

Pork belly shaved so thin it only had one side drizzled with chili oil, sea lettuce and cucumber presented a bold and spicy flavors melting on your tongue with the sweet pork fat.  Foie Gras Soup with a Rose Petal Relish was beyond words, even the memory of each spoonful spiced with hints of kafir lime and rich foie. The rest of the meal was a symphony of beautiful dishes, laughter, stories of past successes and lessons learned.

Food drunk and wine happy, the spirit of the evening lightened our feet and carried us back to the hotel.  Cheers to our good fortune, for being able to spend amazing quality time with such close family and friends and sweet anticipation for the next opportunity to all be together again. 

On the next Culinary R and D we recap our Culinary Adventure through Vancouver Canada.

A Study of Lemon and Tarragon

Tarragon is an amazing herb.  Bright intense flavors with complex undertones and a beautiful aroma should place this herb as my main contender for most used herb in the garden.  Sadly this has not been the case for far too long, but no more!  This summer I have found the perfect partner for my flourishing tarragon plants, the bright and citrusy snap of lemon.

What better format to express these two perfectly paired partners than a cocktail?  Introducing the Tarragon Lemon Fizz; tarragon infused lemonade mixed with Hendricks Gin, topped with prosecco and finished with a tarragon sugar rim.  The tarragon adds a beautiful herbal balance to the tart and sweet lemonade while the gin provides a subtle spice and a fresh hint of cucumber.  The dry prosecco finishes the drink with a smooth bubbly tingle on your tongue.  The sugar rim completes the drink with a hint of sweetness to make this cocktail a true classic.  

The beauty of tarragon is that it plays well with others in both savory and sweet applications.  Here we present our newest savory bite, smoked goat cheese rolled in tarragon in a crisp prosciutto cup.  This is then topped with a warm lemon blueberry compote and finished with diced preserved lemon.   This is a culinary journey neither you nor your taste buds will soon forget!  The salty and crispy prosciutto cup is perfect textural balance to the warm and smooth goat cheese with its hint of smoke accentuated by the sweet tarragon.  The intense blueberry lemon compote adds yet another fresh and bold layer and texture with the diced salty bits of preserved lemon finishing off the journey.  A perfect expression of the season in every bite. 

Tarragon is also a very delicate herb, soft and sweet but regal and classic.  It also adds a French influence to any dish it graces.  With that in mind I ventured back to an old classic, oil poached lobster tail, and started to rework the recipe.  Presenting our Lemon and Tarragon Oil Poached Lobster tail on roasted fingerling potatoes tossed with shaved white onion and fennel, garnished with oven roasted grape tomatoes and finished with a warm drizzle of the poaching oil.  The lobster was moist and delicate with a sweet and delicate aroma wafting from the plate coaxing you to dive right in.  Each bite of the sweet lobster was perfectly balanced with the herbal hits of tarragon and the bright citrus bite of lemon.  The roasted potatoes were the perfect textural balance, adding a slight crunch from the roasted edges and the raw shaved fennel and white onion. The final drizzle of the poaching oil brought the whole party together for a perfectly harmonious orchestra of flavors.   

If there is any other ingredient that could add to the perfect culinary chemistry that is tarragon and lemon it would have to be blueberries.    They are the sweet fruity connector that makes great dishes possible.  Let me introduce our newest dessert sensation, sautéed lemon and tarragon blueberry Tea cake paired with preserved lemon ice cream, drizzled with hot toddy syrup made of lemon, honey and bourbon, then sprinkled with preserved lemon.  Breathtaking!  This dish has everything you need, the cake takes a beautiful crust with the sweet and salty preserved lemon ice cream acting as a perfect foil to the blueberries and tarragon in the cake, but the finisher here is the hot toddy syrup adding a hit of honey and bourbon brings each bite to life!  The final bites of diced preserved lemon add a great salty pop to keep your taste buds engaged with every forkful. 

Some pairings are just too perfect, they need to be explored expanded and played with in such a way to bring out the best in every flavor.  Tarragon and Lemon have kept us inspired and will be playing a major part in this summer’s culinary adventures. Stay tuned for more inspired dishes from Lon Lane's Inspired Occasions Research and Development Department!